Deep, decision-grade guides for choosing solar gear.
Buying solar equipment is a five-figure decision: the wrong inverter or panel can cost you years of returns. These guides walk through the trade-offs that actually matter — temperature coefficients in the Gulf heat, battery chemistry vs. cycle life, hybrid vs. string inverter topologies, sizing rules of thumb that survive contact with a 70 °C rooftop. Every guide is written for installers and serious homeowners, with worked examples in AED, real model comparisons, and the trade-offs vendors won't put in their datasheets. Browse the full set below or jump to a specific question.
GuidesA pump is a surge problem, not a wattage problem. The surge rating row - 2 times rated for 5 or 10 seconds - is what carries the first second of a motor start, and here is what it says on every Felicity inverter and charge controller.
GuidesThe honest answer is that solar first replaces the hours the engine runs, not the engine. Here is what the Felicity records actually publish about pairing with a generator - the input windows, the generator current rows and the charge current that decides how long it runs.
GuidesAn off-grid house is sized by surge, battery energy and charge current - and the surge row is the one that starts your fridge and your pump. Here are the published figures across the Felicity inverters and batteries, with the arithmetic to use them.
GuidesTransfer time is the gap your fridge and router run on nothing, and the input voltage window decides whether the inverter accepts weak mains at all. Both are published per model across the Felicity range - here they are, side by side.
GuidesSana'a sits above 2,000 metres, and an inverter whose datasheet permits 2,000 m is not rated for the city at all. Here is the altitude row on 44 Felicity listings, model by model, and which ones cover your elevation.
GuidesOn IVPS/IVPM models, continuous beep + solid red = fault, output cut; intermittent beeping + flashing red = warning. The number on the LCD is the fix.